Praça do Comércio (Terreiro do Paço)

As Portugal's trading empire expanded and the country grew rich, an increased impetus was given to the area close to the riverfront outside the old city walls. It was here where the ships departed on their voyages of discovery and fortune-seeking adventures. Administrative buildings such as the Casa da India sprung up here to regulate commerce from Portugal's territories. Shipbuilding yards, the Ribeira das Naus, were also located here. Here too, is where Dom Manuel I built his new royal residence, the Ribeira Palace. The palace was the main royal residence for around 250 years. Each successive monarch left their mark on the palace. It, therefore, underwent numerous reconstruction and reconfigurations from the original Manueline style, ending with its final Mannerist and Baroque form. By the mid 18th century the palace was massive and truly impressive. It incorporated a cathedral and a theatre.
The earthquake of 1755, known as the Great Lisbon earthquake, even though the epicentre accord in the Atlantic Ocean about 120 miles (200 km) Southwest of Portugal, was devastating for Lisbon and Southern Portugal. The quake had an estimated magnitude of between 8.5 and 9. The aftershocks, fires and the enormous tsunami that followed collectively killed between 30 – 40,000 people in Lisbon alone. The disaster occurred on the morning of All Saints' Day, the 1st of November. Most of the population were attending church. The lit candles inside the religious buildings contributed to the fires that followed the quake.

King João I and his Prime Minister, the enigmatic Marquis of Pombal, wasted no time in clearing away the rubble. Only one month after the disaster, Eugénio dos Santos de Carvalho, Portugal's chief architect, submitted plans for rebuilding Lisbon. The new layout utilised modern ideals born from the principles of the enlightenment.

The royals moved out from the centre of Lisbon to higher ground. The area where the royal dwelling had once stood was rededicated to commerce. This huge new square was open on the side of the river allowing for ships to moor alongside. The perimeter of the square is formed by large canary-yellow coloured buildings dedicated to administrating Portugal's trade and customs. On the ground level, long colonnades allowed shade from the midday sun. The two ends of the open "U" shape adorn two large towers reminiscent of the tower which once belonged to the Ribeira Palace.

Neither the King nor the Marquis saw the completion of the great triumphal arch located at the northern side of the square. It was completed in 1873. The centrepiece of the square is the equestrian statue of King José I. It is the first monumental statue dedicated to a monarch in Lisbon. It was designed by Joaquim Machado de Castro, Portugal's foremost sculptor of the time.

On 1 February 1908, the square was the scene of the assassination of Carlos I, the penultimate King of Portugal. On their way back from the palace of Vila Viçosa to the royal palace in Ajuda, the carriage containing the monarch and his family passed through the Praça do Comércio. While crossing the square, shots were fired from the crowd by two men: Alfredo Luís da Costa and Manuel Buiça. The king died immediately, his heir Luís Filipe was mortally wounded, and Prince Manuel was hit in the arm. The assassins were shot on the spot by members of the bodyguard. The shooters were members of the Republican Party, who two years later overthrew the Portuguese monarchy.

Many of the government offices that once dominated the square are now restaurants, cafés and museums. Lisbon's main tourist office is located in the square and the outside café seating makes an ideal place to browse through tourist brochures and plan your stay. The most famous of these cafés is the Café Martinho da Arcada which dates back to 1782 and has been a favourite haunt of poets and artists down the ages. The metro station for Praça do Comércio takes the old name for the square, Terreiro do Paço, and runs on the Linha Azul (Blue line). Opposite the Metro station is the ferry port that carries passengers the transport links at Barreiro on the southern bank.

The Beer Museum celebrates six thousand years of brewing history, focusing on the beers brewed within the Portuguese speaking world. Alongside Portuguese brands, you'll find beers from Angola, Brazil, Mozambique, Cape Verde and São Tomé ∧ Príncipe. The second-floor deals mainly with the history of brewing from the first century BC to the present day. Learn how Portuguese brewing traditions followed them on their global discovery.

The first floor celebrates snacks, tapas and other delicious munchies that accompany a beer. Here is the beerhouse and restaurant. There is even a fishcake making machine. The Museum of Beer has a full interior capacity of 240 seats and has a large terrace with 380 seats with a wonderful sight to the river. A great place to enjoy a beer and a snack, however, I would suggest going to a dedicated restaurant for a good meal.

Beer house: 12h00 - 00h00, Museum: 12h00 - 22h00 | €5.00 (inc. tasting)
62 - 65 Terreiro do Paço, 1100-148, Lisboa, Portugal | 38º 42' 29.9" N | 09º 08' 8.8" W
+351 210 987 656 | reservas@museudacerveja.pt |  Website